Tackling Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation — a huge word at the root of many skin issues. Recently, there’s been more and more awareness drawn to it, even from outside of the skincare community (see below!).

Tiktok jokes aside, the ugly truth about hyperpigmentation is that women of color are disproportionally affected by this issue, due to our skin having more melanin. As a response to sun damage, age, acne, etc., skin cells may overproduce melanin, which results in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These dark spots can be treated using laser therapy, but it seems like a cruel joke that while people of color (POC) are naturally more affected by hyperpigmentation, the same characteristic that leads to this (more melanin) is the same one that makes laser treatments ineffective and even dangerous for POC. Using laser surgery on darker skin can lead to epidermal melanin absorption of the laser energy, since the laser treatment may not accurately target the hyperpigmentated areas.

Beyond laser treatments, many skincare products aren’t safe or meant for POC either. A majority of skincare products still neglects POC-specific needs, such as how we are more prone to hyperpigmentation. 75 percent of dermatology clinical trial participants are white, and so people with darker skin tones are not only underrepresented in surface-level ways through advertisements, but deeper in the product ingredient lists as well. This underrepresentation can prove to be dangerous, as some commonly used ingredients, especially at concentrations that are safe for fairer skin tones, can be sensitizing for darker skin tones with prolonged use.

What can KraveBeauty do?

Recently, KraveBeauty has announced their Amplify Melanated Voices series on Instagram, dedicated to spark and inform conversations over race, as well as to lift up Black creators and platforms. Especially since the beauty and skincare industries are historically racist and exclusive (re: limited foundation shades, skin whitening products, products that leave white cast, etc.), this series contributes to a dialogue that has been long-needed. I think KraveBeauty can really add to this effort though by making their products more inclusive in three ways:

1. Highlight any inclusivity factors of products, such as with more marketing and demonstrations on how The Beet Shield does not leave a white cast on darker skin tones
2. Emphasize the efficacy of existing products for POC, such as how sun protection is a must for protecting against further hyperpigmentation, and exfoliation with Kale-Lalu-yAHA can minimize the appearance of sunspots and smooth out skin texture
3. Create a product dedicated to a problem faced by all people, but especially by POC

For the last point, this new product could be targeted specifically toward hyperpigmentation, especially as it is getting more and more media coverage and attention. Although Kale-Lalu-yAHA is already geared toward this issue, hyperpigmentation may require more treatment than exfoliation only. If KraveBeauty introduces another product that is aimed solely toward evening out the skin tone, such as with vitamin C, azelaic acid, transexamic acid, alpha arbutin, etc. then this could address a missing piece in the existing product lineup. Many of these ingredients, such as azelaic acid, are safe for darker skin tones too.

Why KraveBeauty?

KraveBeauty’s mission is to help people #PressReset after years of using products that are destructive to the skin barrier, and a new treatment product could aid in this mission by resetting previous skin damage. This could also lead to quicker results, which may have domino effects in creating higher customer retention and less product waste, solving other problems in the skincare industry that KraveBeauty is tackling.

“Terms like “brand loyalty” and “customer retention” have become more scarce than ever. Beauty consumers were constantly excited but also fatigued with countless options. Maybe more of us are slowly realizing that the focus of skincare companies has shifted away from serving our skin’s essential needs. And maybe they’re creating more unnecessary wants.”

— Liah Yoo

One of the main issues in the skincare industry that KraveBeauty has been positioned against is the constant avalanche of new products by brands trying to stay “relevant.” Due to the overload of information and products, consumers are having a harder time curating a skincare routine that is fit for them. And, from the lack of representation mentioned above, POC are among the consumers who are hardest hit by this issue.

Because most of the existing information and products are geared toward white or fairer skin tones, POC consumers are not only overwhelmed but misguided. Although creating a treatment option for hyperpigmentation would entail launching another product, KraveBeauty can still do so under the original company values and business model:

1. Consume & produce mindfully: the new treatment can save many consumers from years of using damaging products and feeling unnecessary stress toward skincare.
2. More customers for few products vs. few customers for many products: hyperpigmentation is faced by all skin tones, and especially darker skin tones. A new treatment can continue diversifying and expanding the consumer base, particularly those with more severe existing skin damage or stress from the skincare industry.

Growing Awareness & Popularity

Products addressing hyperpigmentation (and issues that disproportionally plague POC in general) have been on the rise recently, especially with Gen-Z. One example is Topicals and their Faded serum. Topicals was recently accepted to Sephora’s 2021 Accelerator Incubator program along with 7 other POC-founded brands, signifying that the industry and consumers are valuing more diversity-focused brands. Topicals is also founded by two Gen-Z founders, which also indicates that these issues of diversity and hyperpigmentation are top of mind for the next generation espcially.

Other noteworthy products include Youth to the People’s new Vitamin C serum and La Roche-Posay’s Glycolic Acid Serum with tranexamic acid and kojic acid, both which launched within the last year. Even just from Google Search trend data, searches for “hyperpigmentation” have almost doubled in the last year. All these factors point to how consumers, especially those with darker skin tones, have been becoming more and more aware of this issue. Even more, they are now not only looking for treatments, but brands that they can trust for this treatment.

Closing Thoughts

In a cluttered industry, KraveBeauty has found a niche in sustainability and product minimalism. Diversity initiatives may seem to lie outside of this niche, but looking closer, it really goes hand-in-hand. POC are the most hurt by the current skincare industry and are disproportionally affected by issues such as hyperpigmentation. They go through products that do not work for them or that work against them, which contributes to misinformation, product waste, and the fast-fashion-esque cycle of the skincare industry. These communities then, may be the ones who resonate with #PressReset and KraveBeauty’s mission the most.

KraveBeauty has already started its diversity effort with Amplify Melanated Voices. The next step is to listen to melanated voices and the issues we bring up, and then to treat melanated skin. I know KraveBeauty prefers to have staple products over a cluttered product line, but by introducing one more treatment product, KraveBeauty can become a one-stop-shop for people with darker skin tones in particular, especially with the existing Kale-Lalu-yAHA and The Beet Shield.

I love the disruption that KraveBeauty has brought to the industry so far, especially as a company founded and led by a woman of color, and I can’t wait to keep seeing more and more people of all skin conditions and colors be included on this exciting journey.